Why does my foundation not look good anymore?

After you've patted in your serums, massaged in your moisturiser, pressed in your SPF, buffed in your primer and blended in your foundation, there's nothing more annoying than seeing all those products clumping and peeling from the surface of your skin. Once this happens, you have no choice but to take it all off and start again, which can be stressful when you're rushing in the AM anyway. Sounds all too familiar? We asked two pros for the mistakes you could be making, and the ways you can prevent your beauty products from pilling.  

1) Your skincare or makeup products have silicones and polymers

Silicones sit on the surface of your skin and often serve as a smoothening and moisturising agent in primers and moisturisers. But because of its chemical structure, it doesn't get absorbed into the skin—it just stays on the top, says celebrity makeup artist Bhavya Arora. If you apply a water or oil-based foundation on top of that, you might have a pilling issue on your hands. Instead, stick to the same ingredient: Try using a silicone primer, foundation and concealer if you like the smooth and even effect. 

Other ingredients that are prone to pilling are iron oxide, talc and mica, which are used to provide a glow or shimmer in makeup products. This means that your liquid illuminator, when applied over layers of silicone-rich products, could separate and clump on the surface. 

2) You're trying to mix oil and water

Water and oil don’t mix together and if you try to rub in two varied products one after the other, they will pill—If you’re using an oil-based primer and a water-based foundation, the latter might just peel off. “Start with the lighter formulas and finish with the heavier products. Water-based ingredients get absorbed quicker and better so start with them. Starting with a thick, oil-based cream will form an occlusive layer,” says Dr Aakriti Mehra of SkinGenious, Mumbai. 

3) You're using too much product

"When a product label says used a pea-sized amount, stick to it,” says Dr Mehra. Instead of going in with a lot of product, apply less and let it absorb before going to the next layer. This is important when you're applying base, such as foundation—use light layers and build up coverage so it melts into the skin. 

4) You're rubbing the product in

Rubbing in your serums and moisturisers on the skin can cause the products to ball up, especially if they contain any silicones. The best solution is to pat and press the product in, as this will enhance absorption and penetration, and will prevent them from travelling all over your face. If you're still working on your brush skills, you could be causing too much friction. Instead, your warm fingers or a beauty sponge can help you dab it in rather than cause streaks and pills.

5) You're not exfoliating enough

“When your skin is flaky, it will not allow the makeup or skincare to properly absorb,” says Arora. She says that dry skin can feel like a powder on top of the skin, and liquid products can stick to it rather than get absorbed by the newer, fresher cells below. Adding a chemical exfoliator to your skincare routine can help, especially when you're prone to flakes. When you're actually applying makeup, hydration is important. Arora says that a damp base can help improve absorption when you apply your makeup on top. 

Also read:

Why exfoliation could be the breakthrough step your skincare routine needs

How to layer your skincare products to make them as effective as possible

6 reasons why your skincare routine isn’t working anymore

Your skin changes throughout your life, but especially during peri-menopause and menopause. So, yes, your foundation needs an upgrade.

And if you haven’t changed your foundation in years, you are not benefiting from the new formulations available. Is your current base making your skin look dull, vanishing into your skin before the day is over or sliding off completely? 

You can now find foundations infused with hydrating serums, with moisturising formulations, illuminating properties and even soothing ingredients for sensitive skin, a common concern for women as they age.

Some of my favourite make-up brands were started by female make-up artists around our age – Charlotte Tilbury, By Terry, Laura Mercier and Bobbi Brown. These women understand the needs of mature skin, so they’re a good place to start.

While there are many products you can easily scrimp on, I always recommend women splurge on foundation. Unlike high-end brands, cheaper brands don’t have the extensive range of shades and a beautiful skin finish requires a perfect skin-colour match. When you find the right shade, I also recommend purchasing the next shade along. If it’s summer, buy a lighter shade for winter; if it’s winter, buy a darker shade for summer. During the in-between months you can blend the two.

And speaking of blending, the most common mistake we all make with foundation is being heavy-handed. You really only need three dabs: on your forehead, nose and chin, and then blend outward towards your hairline.

It can be smart to cultivate a “foundation wardrobe” so you always have the right base for the occasion. Here’s my list of what every woman needs.